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If it's Tuesday: [on a saturday]
This must be St Paul de Vence
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Once again I am on the 1993 'tour of the tourist' and today we find ourselves in a small medieval village in Provence. Arriving by coach, the first glimpse of the village is taken from the road. A miniature village adorning the top of a small hill and surrounded by ramparts. A gateau of stone and mortar, with the mythical church tower for a candle. Is this real? Being prior to the release of that now famous movie Chocolat, this sight was something I had only heard of.. wondrous but somewhat surreal. It became more so, walking past the square leading to the village, elderly gentlemen quietly playing boules under the dappled afternoon light, the chatter of 50 odd tourists breaking an almost other worldly silence. I can still remember this vision.. [but can't find the photo] and wondered if this was a staged event.. 'quick the bus is here, get out the boules'.. haha no only joking.. pretty sure it was part and parcel of this gentle lifestyle.
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St Paul de Vence is a 'perched village' built in the 9th century, high upon a hill to provide safety from the barbarian invasions of that period. Like most medieval towns, the architecture is a patchwork of styles introduced by various occupations during its long history. The surrounding ramparts were built during the renaissance, removed by the military, then bought back by the townspeople in 1872. Upon arrival this was the first glimpse of what is now an indelible memory. That rare moment when expectation meets reality and says .. 'My friend .. today we will concur'
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View on Approach
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After the initial excitement there were more wonders to be found
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In the 1920's the village was an artist's haven. The coveted light and village atmosphere attracted the likes of Renoir, Matisse and Chagall. Still to this day, many artists and craftsman vend their wares from impressively beautiful shops lining the alleyways of the village. I know .. I spent both time and money in a few.. some new baubles and jewels to adorn thee, but as my time was limited I was keen to see the rest of the village..
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Every corner revealed some new delight ...
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An ancient fountain that brought life giving water to the village ancestors. Washing drying from an upstairs window became an artform with it's pretty pastels and checkered cloth. Even the downpipes seemed to drip with artistic beauty. Small private residences happy to display their shuttered windows and lace curtains. The happy pet contingent proudly posing on the cool stone steps leading to their homes. My fascination with front doors was not lost this day... Grand heavy timber, painted in delightful hues of nature or left natural and weathered by time and the master's hand in his daily comings and goings. On this hot August day I imagined stepping inside to escape the heat and be greeted by my newly imagined family. The smell of a slow cooking cassoulet would greet me as I stepped into the ample kitchen, table laid with checkered cloth and weathered silver, fresh baked bread waiting to be devoured by moi!
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But of course I didn't and continued weaving my way through the cobbled streets and alleys, occasionally greeted by unexpected vistas of the surrounding countryside, that popped up from the end of an archway looking more like a backdrop from a movie set.. and always when you thought you were heading the other way.... I could get lost in a village like this.. lost in time and imagination.
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These were the quintessential images of a medieval village [at least to this first time tourist]. I feel almost silly writing this post as I know some of my readers live in France and probably know better if this village is an accurate reflection or just geared to the tourists.. but at the time that wasn't really important to me.. It was my first medieval village and I was suitably impressed!!
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Sadly it is time to leave and climb back onto a bus of smelly tired tourists. I want to stay for nightfall and envisage warm glowing lights from shopfronts and villas beckoning me home for the evening. As I leave, I think Le Chat Noir and her friend Monsieur Chien have a charmed life ... don't you?
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Mademoiselle Francais thinks so too as she sadly looks back for a last goodbye..
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Thank you once again for your lovely comments this week..
They certainly add colour to my life
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Wishing you all a wonderful weekend
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IMAGE SOURCE: Photography, text and photo editing by me - [Being Ruby]
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